Our Wandering Chapter

Practical details and tips are included in the NOTES section at the end of this post.

Our Maltese journey began with Valletta, the golden-stoned capital, shimmering across the Grand Harbour. We made Senglea (Isla) our base for the first four days of our trip and we could see Valletta calling us to cross over and wander its streets.

The morning started with a walk to Gardjola Gardens, just a short stroll from our stay, where Valletta stood across the water in quiet majesty. Below the gardens, we stumbled upon a rocky patch of shoreline at the tip of Senglea- a quiet swim spot which we saved for our evenings.

From the Senglea waterfront, Birgu unfolded on the opposite side. 

As the daily Saluting Battery gunfire at Barrakka Gardens echoed across the harbour, we caught the moment perfectly from Senglea’s edge, a spectacular moment framed by water and stone. We then walked towards the Bormla bridge and crossed over to Cospicua and onwards to Birgu, walking the marina all the way to Fort St. Angelo.

Along the harbour, traditional Maltese boats, the brightly painted luzzu bobbed on the azure water. We paused for lunch at a restaurant on the waterfront overlooking Senglea. After lunch, we decided to take the ferry from Cospicua to go to Valletta, a short but memorable boat ride. As the boat glided across the water, we soaked in postcard-perfect views of the Three Cities from the upper deck, and the fortifications of Valletta rose in front of us. It felt like sailing straight into a story, where sea and stone have spoken to each other for centuries.

Upon disembarking we headed straight to the lift (included in the ferry ticket) which took us to Upper Barrakka Gardens. From there we gazed at the Three Cities and enjoyed one of the best panoramas of the harbour.

Valletta itself is best enjoyed on foot so letting go of maps, we wandered into Republic Street and Merchant Street, admiring the famous, Maltese balconies and honey-coloured stone facades.

Along the way, we passed landmarks– St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the Royal Opera House site, Auberge de Castille, Santa Katerina Church, and the Monument to Jean de la Valette. But more than the landmarks, it was the small details that lingered on- the wooden balconies, the shifting light on limestone facades, the hum of the streets, and the setting sun bathing Valletta in golden rays.

And, of course, no visit would be complete without tasting a warm, flaky pastizz. Ours came from Café Cordina, where we paired the savoury delight with the simple joy of sitting at the St. George’s Square and people-watching.

We took the bus to Valletta the next time. The city welcomed us with the Tritons’ Fountain, before walking past the City gate and letting the city unfold slowly with each step. We found ourselves at The Silversmith’s Shop on Republic Street, where Maltese filigree shimmered like tiny works of art.

And then, back in Senglea, came the ritual we treasured most: descending to the rocky swim spot below Gardjola Gardens. As we slipped into the cool water, music wafted from a cruise ship slowly departing for its next destination and we waved back at the passengers lined along the decks. The day ended admiring the glowing water against Valletta’s skyline- unforgettable moments that stay long after the journey ends.

The next day, we left the capital behind and set out to Mdina- Malta’s Silent City. Read more here: Mdina & Rabat: A Walk Through Time.