Our Wandering Chapter

Practical details and tips are in the Notes section at the end of this post.

After soaking in the Adriatic charm of Dubrovnik, we set out on a day trip across the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina. A journey to Mostar stopping by waterfalls, and stone-roofed villages.

We had booked an early morning, small group tour from Dubrovnik via GetYourGuide (https://www.getyourguide.com/mostar-l1334/dubrovnik-kravica-waterfalls-and-mostar-day-trip-t402063/ ). We were seven passengers, along with our Bosnian driver cum guide in the van. We quickly realized how important it is to set out early: fewer crowds and much shorter lines at the border crossing.

The drive traced Croatia’s scenic coastline before veering inland toward the border. At the checkpoint, our guide handled all formalities: collecting our passports, getting them stamped, and returning them after we crossed. It all went smoothly, and we soon stopped at a quiet roadside café cum restaurant for refreshments before heading towards our first destination.

Kravica Falls: A Natural Wonder in Herzegovina

Our guide helped purchase the entry tickets for everyone in our group, €10 per person for the Kravica Nature Park, and we were soon on the trail, walking through lush greenery towards the distant rush of water.

The well-marked trail wound gently downhill, with gradual stone steps and a steady descent. It was an easy walk, but sturdy shoes are a must as the stone path can get quite slippery. As we drew closer, the roar grew louder until Kravica Falls came into view, unfolding in a wide semicircular cascade created by the Trebižat River, tumbling into an emerald pool below.

Arriving early meant it was almost empty, just the rumble of the falls breaking the quiet, and sunlight glinting on the spray.  A few other visitors had rented small boats and were rowing towards the foot of the falls, drifting through the mist to admire the cascades up close. We hadn’t packed for swimming, so we wandered the banks instead, simply soaking in the beauty of this natural marvel. The water was crystal-clear, and tiny fish darted in the shallows, adding to the sense of tranquillity.

There are restaurants, cafés, and restrooms near the falls, making it an easy place to pause for a while. Restrooms are also available at the top near the park entrance, before the trail begins.

Time flew by swiftly, and it was time to make our way back up the stone steps to the van, pausing for one last look before continuing our journey.

Počitelj: A Medieval Stone Village in Herzegovina

Počitelj, a UNESCO heritage site, is one of Herzegovina’s most picturesque and historically significant towns. It’s like stepping into a living open-air museum, an enchanting blend of medieval and Ottoman-era architecture. Počitelj stands above the Neretva River with its stone-roofed houses and narrow stairways winding steeply uphill.

We parked right at the base of the village where our guide led us to an elderly local lady selling freshly picked strawberries. Sweet, juicy, and delicious! We snacked on them as we began climbing up the stone steps. Along the way, locals were selling fresh produce, sun-warmed strawberries, frozen pomegranate juice, and handmade souvenirs, their stalls tucked into corners of the stairway.

As the winding trail continued, the path felt almost forgotten in places- overgrown with wild vegetation, crumbling at the edges, as though the town had been gently reclaimed by time.

On the way up, we passed by the Hajji Alija Mosque, its slender minaret and stone dome framed by trees. We also saw the Sahat-Kula (Clock Tower), another stunning landmark of 16th-century Ottoman architecture. The scene was almost surreal: the mosque, the tangle of stone steps, and the river winding quietly beyond.

We paused often to capture the rustic beauty until we reached the remains of the medieval fortress at the top: the Počitelj Citadel.

The views were breathtaking, a sweeping panorama of the Neretva River curling through lush greenery, stone houses scattered along the cliff, and the distant hills fading into blue.

On our way back down, we bought bottles of icy pomegranate juice, the perfect refreshment before hopping back into the van to continue onwards to Mostar.

Exploring the iconic Old Bridge and the Cobblestone Streets of the Old Town in Mostar

Our final stop was Mostar, and by now the day had warmed, and the streets buzzing with visitors. It was time for lunch, and we followed our guide walking into the storybook-like old town, to a cozy restaurant- Food House Mostar. As recommended, we ordered the Sultan’s Wedding Feast, a delicious and generous spread of traditional Bosnian dishes.

Loaded with energy after the hearty lunch we strolled through the cobblestoned lanes of the Old Town, lined with bazaars and cafés.

At the heart of it all rose the Stari Most (Old Bridge), arching high over the Neretva River. Its pale stone glowed in the sunlight as crowds gathered to watch the famed bridge divers who collect donations from tourists before leaping dramatically into the river below.

Tip: The bridge is paved with raised, chunky marble steps that are extremely slippery. Walk cautiously, especially on the smooth central stones.

We continued exploring and soon wandered down a cobbled path to the small beach below the Stari Most, to get a different view of the bridge.

Afterwards, we walked up to the old town and crossed the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Ćuprija), a smaller and quieter version of the Stari Most, and continued to Lucki Most for yet another beautiful riverside view. On our walk back to Old Town from Lucki Most we took a detour and stopped at one more viewpoint- The Steps. This spot is separated from the beach under Stari Most by a small stream. Here, away from the bustle, we sat for a while, just watching the river flow beneath the Stari Most and holding onto the final quiet minutes in this beautiful town.

Later, as we retraced our steps, we stopped at Café Stari Grad to enjoy a local beer and soak in the old town’s rhythm. It was the perfect pause for people-watching, with the lively hum of vendors, visitors, and the river flowing below.

By late afternoon, we were back in the van, heading toward Dubrovnik as golden light swept across the hills. It had been a long day but a memorable one, that will stay with us long after our return to the Adriatic coast.