Our Wandering Chapter

We’ve added practical details and tips in the NOTES section at the end of this post.

It was in December that we once again found ourselves sailing to Tallinn. The Baltic Queen, operated by Silja Line, departed from Stockholm Värtahamnen at 17:30 CET, its lights glimmering on the dark water. The ship glided steadily through the stillness of the Baltic night, towards a picturesque landscape wrapped in snow.

In the morning, we arrived in Tallinn at 10:45 (Estonian time), stepping out into a city transformed by winter.

To see the same city painted in warm shades of red and gold, read our autumn post on Tallinn.

The medieval Old Town, which we had seen in autumn hues, now shimmered in a white blanket, the red roofs, towers and church spires frosted with snow, straight out of the pages from a fairytale.

The Town Hall Square had turned into a cosy Christmas market with wooden stalls twinkling with fairy lights and a towering Christmas tree stood beside the Tallinn Town Hall. The air was filled with the comforting aroma of mulled wine, roasted almonds, and gingerbread, mingling with cheerful chatter.

From the Square, we set out towards Patkuli and Kohtuotsa Viewpoints, two of Tallinn’s most scenic lookouts. The climb to Patkuli led us through quiet, snow-covered lanes. From here, the red roofs and towers of the Old Town, dusted with snow, stretched below us towards the distant Baltic Sea. The city felt timeless and serene beneath its winter cloak. After soaking in the panorama, we continued to Kohtuotsa Viewpoint, where pastel façades and church spires peeked through the snow.

With the cold beginning to bite, we made our way downhill to Pub Kompressor, known for its hearty portions and local charm.  Inside, the warmth and the aroma of food were irresistible. We relished their savoury stuffed pancakes, filling, delicious, and perfect against the chill.

After lunch, we continued towards the striking Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, its black domes dusted with snow and golden crosses gleaming faintly against the pale sky. Across the square, the soft pink façade of the Estonian Parliament added a pop of colour to the winter palette.

Entering the Danish King’s Garden felt almost surreal, the statues of the three hooded monks standing silently among the snow-covered paths and bare trees.

From there, we descended back into the heart of the Old Town, passing the Restoran Olde Hansa, its timbered façade and candle-lit windows glowing through the cold air added to the city’s storybook charm.

Our walk continued along St. Catherine’s Passage (Katariina käik), a narrow medieval lane lined with artisan workshops and stone walls. Wrapped in winter’s quiet spell, it radiated warmth and the flickering lanterns cast soft light on the snow-covered cobblestones.

Our final stop was the Viru Gate, its twin towers standing like sentinels over the snow-covered streets. As dusk settled, we made our way back to the port bidding a quiet farewell to the city that feels magical in every season.

The next morning, as the ferry neared Stockholm, the archipelago unfolded in full winter splendour: frozen shores, red and yellow cottages, and snow-laden pines tucked into the white landscape. The Baltic Sea lay in winter’s quiet embrace, its islands powdered in snow. It was a true Nordic fairytale, and one of the most impressive views we’d ever seen.