Our Wandering Chapter

[Post 2 of the Gozo series.]

Practical details in the NOTES section at the end of this post.

After a hearty breakfast at the little restaurant across our BnB, we were all set for a full day exploration of Gozo’s raw coastal beauty, a landscape shaped by wind, sea, and stone.

Marsalforn Salt Pans & Wied il-Għasri Gorge

We caught Bus 310 from Victoria, winding through the countryside towards Marsalforn and getting off at Xwejni. From the bus stop, a scenic coastal walk begins past Xwejni Bay, leading to Gozo’s centuries-old salt pans, a shimmering patchwork of shallow rock pools stretching along the coast.

The salt pans of Xwejni are among Gozo’s most distinctive and surreal sights, a mosaic of geometric pools carved into limestone and shaped by hand over centuries. As the seawater evaporates, it leaves behind pure white crystals of sea salt, harvested each summer using traditional Gozitan methods. The coastline here feels timeless: waves breaking against stone, sun glinting off salt, and silence stretching across the shore.

As we continued the trail along the coast, the salt flats soon give way to cliffs and winding paths leading towards Wied il-Għasri Gorge, a breathtaking natural wonder of Gozo.

From above, this ribbon of turquoise water cutting through pale rock, looks inaccessible. But the flight of steps carved into the cliff leads down to a small pebble beach below. Scenic and untouched, this secluded inlet is a hidden gem for those seeking Gozo’s quieter, natural side.

After soaking in the views, we made our way back towards the road, walked up to Onici (Zebbug), and caught Bus 309 back to Victoria.

A quick stop for pastries from a nearby patisserie and a scoop of gelato at Victoria Bus Terminus was the perfect recharge before boarding the next bus onwards to Dwejra Bay.

Dwejra Bay: Cliffs, Caves, and the Lost Azure Window

If Gozo’s north coast feels calm and meditative, Dwejra Bay reveals the island’s untamed beauty where raw cliffs, wind, and waves shape one of Malta’s most magnificent coastlines.

We took Bus 311 from Victoria, a scenic 25-minute ride through open countryside before ending at Dwejra’s rugged shoreline. Once home to the famous Azure Window which collapsed in 2017, Dwejra remains one of Gozo’s most spectacular natural sites. The former arch may be gone, but the beauty of the place remains undiminished: the cliffs, the sea spray, and the endless horizon all holding the same awe.

The weather that day was bright and sunny, but the wind was fierce, and the waves crashed powerfully against the rocks. It’s easy to see why this spot was chosen as a filming location for Game of Thrones. As we wandered along the cliffs, we admired the fossil patterns and a mosaic of rocks shaped by centuries of wind and waves. The whole scene was raw, exhilarating, and one can truly feel Gozo’s untamed spirit: wind roaring through the cliffs, the sea spray in the air, foam swirling over the dark rock, and the sound of crashing waves.

A short walk inland leads to the Inland Sea a tranquil lagoon linked to the open sea through a narrow tunnel.

After soaking in the views and sea breeze, we caught the next bus toward Victoria, ready for the final stop of the day, Xlendi Bay.

Xlendi Bay: Clifftop Trail and Golden Light

From Victoria, we caught Bus 306 to Xlendi Bay, a 15-minute ride that winds through Gozo’s countryside before descending towards the sea. Xlendi is one of the island’s most beloved bays, a small cove framed by steep cliffs, seaside cafés, and walking trails that promise sweeping views of the coast.

The day was sunny but the wind had turned fierce and swimming was off-limits. So, we decided to explore one of the walking trails around Xlendi bay. We followed the trail that curves along the water’s edge towards Xlendi Tower (Torri tax-Xlendi), one of Gozo’s oldest coastal watchtowers.

Crossing the small stone Xlendi Bridge, which links to the other side of the bay, we continued our hike up the cliffs. The trail revealed breathtaking views at every turn: rugged cliffs wrapped in golden sunlight, deep blue water, and the wind echoing through the rocks.

As we neared the tower, the panorama widened to sweeping cliffs fading into the horizon and the tiny Xlendi salt pans etched into the rock below.

By evening, we were back in Victoria, where the day eased into a gentle Mediterranean night. Lights shimmered across St. George’s Square, and the air carried the soft hum of conversation and clinking glasses. We ended our day at Porta San Giorgio, one of the inviting restaurants lining the piazza. Tables spilled out into the lively piazza, beneath the softly lit basilica. As we waited for dinner, sipping chilled local beer, the friendly owner surprised us with a serving of traditional Maltese bruschetta. As the evening drifted by it felt like the perfect close to a day that captured Gozo’s charm and essence.

We set out to Comino the following morning for its turquoise bays, a scenic coastal hike and an unforgettable cave boat ride.