Our Wandering Chapter

[Post 3 of the Gozo series.]

Just like our other mornings in Gozo, we began our day with a hearty breakfast at the café opposite 39 St. George, before setting off on a day trip to explore Comino.

From Victoria Bus Terminus, we caught Bus 301 to Mġarr Harbour. Although we had browsed a few boat operators the previous night, we decided to buy our tickets at the harbour itself. A friendly salesperson from Ebsons Ferry approached us, and we chose their round-trip option that included the Comino caves. Other operators such as Bella Comino Ferries offer similar services.

Visiting the Blue Lagoon requires a free online time slot booking, which you can secure either before or after purchasing your boat ticket.

Website: https://blcomino.com/product/blue-lagoon/

Once the slot is confirmed, the Blue Lagoon staff gives a coloured wristband that corresponds to the chosen time. We booked two slots, morning and afternoon, to keep our day flexible.

Tip: Keep your permit wristband and return ticket safe, and double-check the return ferry times for your chosen operator.

The crossing to Comino took around 20 minutes. As the boat pulled in to Comino, the first glimpse of the Blue Lagoon was every bit as breathtaking, glowing turquoise water and white limestone creating that postcard-perfect scene. Arriving early meant the lagoon was still manageable, but by afternoon it transformed into its usual high-season chaos: umbrellas pressed together, rocky ledges full, and barely a patch of space to sit or swim.

Upon disembarking, the skipper reminded us that any Ebsons ferry with the cave route would take us back. Although the Blue Lagoon was tempting, we were looking for a quieter swim and a scenic walk, so we followed the short trail climbing above the lagoon instead. From here, the landscape unveiled a panoramic vista of the Blue Lagoon and Comino’s dramatic cliffs rising straight from the sea. It was the perfect start to our island loop hike.

A Coastline Walk Through Comino

The trail stretched across Comino offering breathtaking views. The crowded Blue Lagoon faded behind us, replaced by rugged terrain, quiet paths, and wide horizons where Malta and Gozo shimmered in the distance. As we continued, the trail led us towards Crystal Lagoon, a rock-carved inlet glowing in shades of sapphire and emerald. The lagoon looked stunning from the edge of the cliff. Many boat tours anchor here for swimming and snorkelling.

Continuing inland along a limestone path lined with shrubs and hardy vegetation, we reached the Chapel of Our Lady’s Return from Egypt, a small neo-Gothic church with medieval roots. Tucked quietly into the landscape, it offered a serene pause before we continued towards Santa Marija Bay.

Santa Marija Bay was our favourite swimming spot in Comino. Clear, shallow water in the backdrop of trees, and a gently curving shoreline. We strolled along the bay before slipping into the refreshing water for a leisurely swim.

We were soon back on the trail and as the path curved towards San Niklaw Bay, the landscape opened into a tranquil inlet with panoramic views across to Gozo.

Continuing towards the Blue Lagoon, we often paused simply to admire the raw beauty of the island, feel the wind brushing past, watch the sea shift in colour, and spot a handful of travellers resting on the rocks.

By the time we reached the Blue Lagoon, it had transformed entirely. Umbrellas everywhere, people packed across the shoreline, and barely a spot left to stand. We grabbed a cool smoothie from one of the stalls and soaked in our final moments on Comino while waiting for the return boat.

An Unexpected Adventure at Sea

By this time, the wind had strengthened and the sea had turned noticeably rough. At the pier, we exchanged conversations with a few familiar faces from our morning boat, all of us wondering whether the cave detour would still be possible.

When our ferry arrived, the captain explained that they would attempt the cave detour only if the conditions remained safe. We boarded with a mix of hope and caution. Moments after leaving the lagoon, we were almost certain we were heading directly to Gozo until the captain steered towards the cliffs. The skipper assured us that the conditions were rough but still safe enough to continue. What followed felt like a mini roller-coaster at sea.

The boat rose and dipped with the rolling waves, everyone gripping the rails caught somewhere between adrenaline and excitement. Hearts pounded, wide eyed glances and nervous smiles turned into bursts of shared laughter. With wind and sea spray on our faces, the boat felt like its own tiny community united by the waves, wind, and the anticipation of the caves ahead.

The mood shifted instantly to awe as we neared the caves. The water deepened to a rich sapphire, and the limestone walls the limestone walls glowed in the afternoon sun.

The captain eased the boat gently into the mouth of the cavern, revealing jagged formations carved by centuries of wind and waves.

Back in Gozo

Once back at Mġarr Harbour, we hopped on the bus to Victoria carrying a bundle of memories from the day.

After a quick stop at our accommodation, we headed out for a cosy dinner on St. George’s Square. The wind had grown stronger by evening, howling through the narrow alleys but the square still buzzed with chatter beneath the warm glow of the basilica. Even the wild gusts couldn’t dampen Gozo’s lively energy.

Since it was our last night on the island, we wandered through Victoria’s quiet backstreets after dinner. Lantern-lit corners, shuttered windows, hidden courtyards, and tiny balconies gradually led us uphill to the Citadel, where sweeping night views stretched across the town and countryside.

By the next morning, the wind had intensified to the extent that the fast ferry to Valletta had been suspended. Our original plan changed unexpectedly, but it gave us the perfect chance to experience the Gozo Channel ferry to Ċirkewwa instead. We bought tickets at the Mġarr Terminal (also available online) and boarded the traditional ferry for the 25-minute crossing. We stood on the deck watching Comino and its caves drift by, a scenic finale that felt like its own little adventure.

Explore the other parts of our Gozo series here: Victoria & Ramla Bay, and Salt pans, Dwejra and Xlendi.