Our Wandering Chapter

Ulriken is the highest of Bergen’s famous seven mountains, rising 643 metres above sea level. The easiest way to reach the summit is by taking the Ulriken cable car, but those who prefer to explore on foot can choose from several hiking routes beginning near the cable car station or at Montana. We decided to experience Mount Ulriken by hiking both up and down.

We stayed at the wonderful Bergen Hostel Montana during our time in Bergen. Apart from its peaceful hillside setting and beautiful views, the hostel is ideally located for hiking Ulriken. The most popular route begins close to the hostel and follows the 1333 stone Sherpa Steps towards the summit.

After a hearty breakfast at the hostel, we got ready for the hike. We had also requested packed sandwiches to carry with us, planning to enjoy them either at the summit or during the walk back. It turned out to be a great decision.

Getting to the Ulriken Trail from Montana

For visitors travelling from Bergen city centre, the most convenient public transport option is bus number 12 to the Montana bus stop. Line 12 currently serves Montana, but it is always sensible to check the Skyss journey planner before travelling.

From the Montana bus stop, follow the signs towards Bergen Hostel Montana. Shortly before reaching the hostel, turn right and continue uphill. The gravel road leading towards the hiking trails begins here. The walk from the hostel area to the main trail junction took us approximately 15 minutes. At the end of the gravel road, you will find signs pointing towards the different routes up Ulriken.

Continue straight along the path as it bends sharply to the left. After a few more minutes, the first stone steps appear. From this point, the route follows the Sherpa Steps towards the summit. The stone staircase was constructed with the help of Sherpas from Nepal and opened in 2018. The Sherpa Steps route is sometimes referred to as Oppstemten.

Several paths lead from Montana towards Ulriken. The quickest and steepest option is the popular route following the Sherpa Steps. Those looking for a longer and gentler climb can keep to the right after the gravel road. We chose the Sherpa Steps route for both the ascent and descent.

Hiking the 1333 Sherpa Steps

Although the steps make the route easier to follow, this is not a simple staircase from beginning to end. Sections of the trail are rocky and uneven, with some stones loose or slippery. So, it is important to watch where you step, particularly while walking downhill.

It had snowed on the mountain the night before our hike. Some parts of the trail were covered in snow, making the rocks and steps slippery. We therefore walked slowly and were especially cautious while descending. The conditions added time to the hike, but they also transformed the landscape. The contrast between the snow-covered upper mountain, the rocky trail and the views over Bergen made the climb particularly memorable.

The climb is steep, but the scenery provides plenty of reasons to stop. As we gained height, the views over Bergen gradually opened up behind us. Houses, roads, lakes and neighbourhoods became smaller below, while the surrounding mountains, fjords and distant islands came into view. The trail includes natural viewpoints integrated into parts of the stone staircase, great for resting as well as enjoying the changing panorama and taking photographs. We stopped frequently, not because we were struggling, but we couldn’t help pausing to soak in the breathtaking views.

It took us approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach the top of Ulriken from Montana. We consider ourselves “reasonably fit” rather than experienced hikers, and we stopped several times to take photographs. The snow and slippery patches also meant that we walked more cautiously than we might have in dry summer conditions.

We shared the trail with people of many ages, including children, young hikers, families and seniors. We even saw parents carrying small children. However, this should not be taken to mean that the hike is suitable for every person or in every season. It remains a steep mountain walk, and wet, icy or snowy conditions can make it substantially more demanding.

At the opposite end of the scale were the trail runners. Several extremely fit hikers ran past us on their way up and back down. Judging by their pace, some regulars could probably complete the climb in well under an hour. Our walk back to Bergen Hostel Montana took approximately 45 minutes, excluding a short sandwich break.

At the Summit of Mount Ulriken

Reaching the top of Ulriken at 643 metres brought panoramic views across Bergen and the surrounding region. The top station of the Ulriken cable car is located near the summit. There is also a restaurant there where visitors can stop for a drink and a meal.

Ulriken does not have to be the end of the hike. From the summit, experienced walkers can continue across the mountain plateau known as Vidden, eventually reaching Mount Fløyen. We saw the clearly marked signs for the Vidden trail near the top of Ulriken. With snow still lying on the mountain, this was not the right time for us to continue across Vidden. It looked like a wonderful route for the summer months though, so we have kept it for a future visit.

Visitors who do not want to walk down Ulriken can buy a one-way cable-car ticket for the descent. We had already decided to walk both ways, so after spending some time at the summit, we began our descent along the same route.

A short distance into our descent, we found a spot overlooking Bergen and stopped for a snack break. Surrounded by snow-dusted slopes, rugged rocks and sweeping mountain views, our packed sandwiches and fruit drink tasted heavenly. Sometimes, the most memorable parts of a trip are also the simplest: a quiet mountainside, a spectacular view and a chance to pause and take it all in.

An Alternative Route from Montana

Those who find long stair climbs difficult can consider one of the longer routes from the Montana side rather than taking the steep Sherpa Steps option. This route offers a more gradual alternative in parts, however, “gentler” does not necessarily mean easy. We did not walk this alternative ourselves, so we cannot comment on the full trail from personal experience. Other travellers staying at Montana Hostel at the time told us that it was not as clearly marked and had become slushy following the rain and snow the previous night.

Anyone planning to use an alternative route should check an up-to-date hiking map and current trail conditions.

Is the Ulriken Hike Worth It?

Absolutely. The Sherpa Steps are steep, but the trail rewards the effort almost immediately with increasingly impressive views over Bergen.

For us, staying at Bergen Hostel Montana made the hike particularly convenient. We could begin the day with breakfast, walk directly from the hostel towards the trail and return without arranging any additional transport.

The combination of the stone steps, unexpected snow, panoramic summit views and our sandwich stop overlooking Bergen made hiking Ulriken one of the most memorable experiences of our stay.

For another unforgettable experience from Bergen, explore our day trip through Nærøyfjord, Flåm and Stegastein, filled with dramatic fjord scenery, waterfalls and snow-dusted mountains.